A Sushi Legend opens in a Sake Brewery
Dassai Omakase is a pop-up in the middle of their tasting room
I wrestled with whether to even write this review at all
You see, the Omakase I recently had at the Dassai Blue sake brewery – they call it a Sakagura, but it’s much more than that – was outstanding. But it also isn’t really a “restaurant”. It’s a pop-up.
And I take the sanctity of this website very seriously.
But then I remembered my review of the $1,000 Sushi Namba pop-up (link). And I’m currently nursing a perfectly mild, delightfully fruity glass of port.
Most importantly, this experience was awesome, and apparently Dassai Blue is going to do more of them, so let’s ride with a very abbreviated review.
The set up
Quick refresh on the brewery
Dassai is one of the world’s largest producers of Nihonshu. They’re based in Japan, but in an effort to diversify, they opened the first large-scale Sake Brewery in New York.
I met their CEO and did a full tour two years ago, which you can read about here. The main changes since then? Two: they refined their tasting room process and now almost exclusively source their rice from Arkansas. You read that right.
The space is beautiful – hosting-a-wedding-beautiful – which made it the perfect candidate for a pop-up sushi experience. I went to the opening, but they’re hosting other events coming soon according to their Tock page.
They also got lucky with the Itamae
Tasuku Murakami is overseeing the program (he may not be there each meal, I’m told). If you remember Murakami-san’s name from his participation in 15 East’s recent re-opening, don’t worry, I was confused also. I’m not sure what happened, but I do know 15 East has emailed diners with reservations that Murakami-san left.
Their loss is Dassai’s gain – he was excellent at Sushi Azabu back in the day, and delivered a fantastic omakase here, especially given the circumstances.
More pop-up than restaurant
This was the grand opening, so they went a little nuts on the pours. But moving forward, it seems dinner (Friday and Saturday) will be $250 (with a sake flight add-on) and lunch (Friday to Sunday) will be $85. Sake flights optional.
I’ll run through the menu quickly because it changes often.
1: Hotategai (it’s in there somewhere) made with Sake Lees. I’m on the record as hating caviar with sushi – and creme in anything – so the meal was all up from here.
2: Akami
Good to see my old friend Hagashi Toro
If the honmaguro (bluefin tuna) below looks smooth, there’s a good reason for that: the preparation. Hagashi Toro, or what Murakami-san called “peeled”, and so it is. He removes the sinews and tendons from the belly cut, and the result is usually a visual delight.
As a side note, I’ve been seeing more NYC sushiya serve honmaguro earlier in their meals recently. Not sure if it’s because I’ve been eating with more traditionally-trained Itamae, or just a quirk, but me likey. There’s no set rules on order.
3: Hagashi Toro
I also met my old friend Beyond
Dassai typically puts numbers behind their Sake that reflects the rice polishing ratio. Lower the better, as in Dassai 23 is typically more prized than Dassai Blue 50. But the Beyond is an exception. It goes beyond the Dassai 23 – get it? – and the result is something that real and fake snobs seem to love. Dassai Blue recently brewed their own Beyond, and bottles retail for $1,200, so I’d say mission accomplished. Good for me that a healthy pour was part of this meal. Definitely worth asking about if you go, though my tongue is as refined as Voldemort’s for high-end alcohol (I hope this makes sense), so don’t trust me.
Dassai Blue Beyond
4: Kinmedai
5: Awabi no Kimo (its liver in sauce)
Shari is provided after for the liver sauce
6: Aji
7: ni Hotate (poached scallop) – a highlight
8: Sanma with baba ghanoush (sanma is currently in season)
9: A version of toro taku (thanks to my dining neighbor for the hand model). No rice.
Portioning
10: Shiro Ika
11: “Uni cream” with Uni and caviar
12: Ikura
13: Pickles with Dassai “Cheese”
14: Kani risotto (dishes like this make it a very filling meal)
15: Nodoguro
Another angle
16: Kuruma Ebi
17: Miso soup
These beauties brought out hot sake for dessert
There was dessert
A Matcha Cheesecake and a Chocolate. If we’re in the trust tree, I’m not a big dessert guy. And that’s a real position, not like your “I’ll just have a sliver” uncle. When sushiya ask about dietary restrictions, I’ll tell them no Willy Wonkas. So if you’re looking for dessert takes, might I suggest Food52.
Bottom line – a great experience
I’ve said it before, but the New York City sushi scene is a mile wide and an inch deep. Any new experience – this qualified – that’s also great – this also qualified – is worthwhile.
I’m going to get serious for the first and last time
The Dassai brewery is in a beautiful part of the Hudson Valley – Hyde Park – but it’s not the city. You’ll be tempted to drive yourself, and that’s fine. But, from my perspective, the best way to enjoy your visit – the aesthetics, the cherry blossoms outside, the art inside and the sushi on the weekends – is to enjoy the sake. If you agree, do me one favour (I don’t ask for much). Get an Uber. Walk. Sleep in the parking lot, I don’t care.
But please don’t drink and drive.
Recommended.
