There’s no sushiya I visit more frequently than Makio
The Hudson Valley – basically the Hamptons without the smell of Los Angeles – is how I get away from the city. Pre-2020, it was manageable, but word’s gotten out. Good, in some ways; there’s now a Dassai Sake Brewery (I reviewed it here). In others, not so; an Auberge popped up in Gardiner to cosplay as a farm and host finance bros. You could visit, sit by the pool and stare at a field; I’d personally rather light myself on fire.
But one constant has been Kingston’s Sushi Makio. It’s run by Makio Idesako, his family, and longtime employees, like server Tim, that might as well be family. It epitomizes everything a neighborhood sushiya should be: familial, a friendly Itamae (chef/owner), seasonal and daily specials, packed with locals, and above all else, fucking delicious sushi.
Itamae Makio Idesako
I first reviewed it 10 years ago, and figured a light refresh was warranted. Let’s call it’s a guide, helpful if you find yourself in an uptown Kingston strip mall.
When to visit
I find it far busier during the week (around 6:30) than weekend. Perhaps because it caters to locals? Reservations may be necessary after 6:30pm.
Where to sit
If you’re two or fewer, sit at the counter and watch Makio (and his apprentice – Olivia?), work. If you’re nice, he may make you an otsumami on the house (I’m partial to the Katsuo). There are six or so tables, but service can be slow during busy periods.
A selection of Otsumami provided by Makio
What to order
The sushi platter for one is 10 pieces of nigiri, a tekka maki (akami) and tamago. While prices have risen (duh), somehow this moriawase (assorted platter) remains at $36. Incredible deal.
Sushi Platter ($36)
I usually will add a few traditional delicacies. Toro taku, makizushi with scraped toro, takuan (pickled yellow vegetable) and shiso, is particularly delicious.
Toro Taku ($13)
As is Umeshiso, makizushi featured umeboshi (pickled plum) and shiso leaf. Makio uses ume paste, but some sushiya will cut their own. Wonderfully tart regardless.
Ume Shiso
Makio-san is also extra generous with O Toro when they have it.
Sushi Legends like this are hard to find in New York City, never mind the Hudson Valley. No surprise that sitting with Makio-san is my happy place.
Recommended.
