Sushi Kaji Return

I love this picture

A real life Toronto Sushi Legend

I don’t want to be dramatic but this blog wouldn’t exist without Sushi Kaji

The year was 2012. The Mayans had yet again failed to predict the apocalypse.

It was also my first time at Toronto’s Sushi Kaji. Kaji was on my radar for years, thanks to the Zagat guide. If you’re not familiar, before there was Yelp and Google, we all relied on a secret cabal of Zagat critics to tell us where to eat. It was crazy.

Fortunately, we’ve evolved. We now rely on a secret cabal of Michelin critics to tell us where to eat. Progress.

13 years is more than long-enough for a re-review

Check out my 2012 review here; fair warning, it’s a hilarious time capsule of this blog. Or read on for a more updated version.

Sushi Kaji – just Kaji on the marquee – opened in 2000 in a non-descript Etobicoke strip mall. Mitsuhiro Kaji was, and still is, the Itamae, though various family members have joined him since. There’s about 1 staff member for every 2 customers, and the sushiya is renowned for excellent service.

Kaji is located next door to Papa John’s. Don’t let that fool you.

It’s also known for great sushi

Speaking of 2012, Kaji is regularly more packed than the Guvernment was (IYKYK). 10 counter seats and 4 tables are turned twice a night, at 6:00pm and 8:15pm. Omakase-only, with Okonomi (a la carte) after. Nigiri at the counter is served one-at-a-time, while the tables are served by the platter.

Outside Sushi Kaji

We sat in front of Kaji-san, but unlike other sushiya, that didn’t mean he served us. Sushi Kaji’s Omakase is a true team effort, with different apprentices responsible for different sushi courses. In fact, during our visit, Kaji-san prepared the nigiri for the tables.

Kaji-san in front of the restaurant’s famous art

That may annoy snobs, but I can’t get enough of watching him make sushi, no matter who it’s for. He interacts with everyone, often chiding customers – playfully – for not using their fingers to eat their sushi or, even worse, bathing their sushi in the provided soy sauce (Sushi Kaji does not apply nikiri, another unique quirk).

We ordered the $125 Omakase

That’s 14 courses for less than $100 USD with one of the continent’s true shokunin (artisans). Yes, there are chalkboard omakase spots in New York that cost more. Exhibit K that we’re in a bubble.

Doing it this way freed up room to order a la carte (Okonomi) nigiri at the end. Most sushiya include larger appetizers (not really otsumami) into their Omakase. Good for them, but more sushi at a sushi temple seems like a smart way to approach life.

Overflowing Sake, like it should be. The dish underneath is the dessert.

1: Hirame (olive flounder) with “sticky rice”

2: Gindara (black cod)

3: Tuna Tartare with spicy mayo – the one letdown of the evening. It was tasty but spicy mayo is the bane of my sushi existence

The sushi starts with Honmaguro (bluefin tuna)

That’s atypical for an Omakase, where milder tasting fish like shiromi usually lead. No qualms from me or my dining partner.

4: Akami (lean tuna)

5: Chu Toro

Another angle of the Chu Toro

6: O Toro

Kaji-san and his oshizushihako

Oshizushi, or pressed sushi, is a form of sushi that comes from Osaka, in the Kansai region of Japan (remember that little nugget for later in this blog). It’s made by putting shari (sushi rice) into a wooden rectangular box called an oshizushihako, then layering a topping. Here, it was Unagi. Kaji-san makes it himself, and it’s worth watching his process if it’s on the menu when you’re there.

7: Unagi oshizushi

8: Sodeika (typical Ika)

9: Hirame (olive flounder)

10: kinmedai

Most ingredients are from Japan, but Sushi Kaji will source elsewhere where necessary. Case in point, Ocean Trout, from Scotland.

11: Umi Masu (Ocean Trout) from Scotland

12: Shima Aji

13: Hotategai

14: Called Aka Ebi (red shrimp), which is the name for many different types of shrimp. Believe it was Argentinean Red Shrimp.

15: Tako

16: Kaji-san presents the Takuan temaki. This was outstanding.

17: Soba with baby prawns

18: Yuzu sorbet

Extra 1: Hokkaido Uni ($16)

Extra 2: Chiagishi (Chu Toro)

Extra 3: O Toro

Extra 4: Akami

Quick revisit of the honmaguro

I’m going to tread lightly here, because I’m no fishmonger when it comes to identifying specific cuts.

But I feel comfortable saying that Kaji offers a variety of cuts from the Tuna, the King of all Edomae Sushi fish.

For example, below left is Chu Toro from the Omakase, and below right is from the add-ons. Left looks like a more typical Chu Toro cut, from the middle back, while right looks like Chiaigishi, which comes from a very small part in the middle near the ‘red muscle’. It declines in freshness quickly, perhaps why it’s a special.

Then there’s the O Toro. On the left, likely Jabara, a cut of otoro referred to as the bellows underbelly. It has, as you can likely tell, more sinew. On the right, the O Toro is likely Shimofuri, or marbled flesh.

The rice – the shari – is special

I’ve never been an Itamae, but I’m guessing there’s no higher praise. It’s not just the temperature or consistency, its the flavor – sorry, flavour – which is sweeter than typical, as Shari from the Kansai area tends to be. No surprise that Kaji-san plans to retire to Nara, apparently in three years.

Oh ya, he claims he’s retiring in three years

So you better go soon.

Better visit the team at Kaji soon…

Let’s get deep: It’s not a great sign that Kaji is still Toronto’s bellwether

Putting aside Sushi Masaki Saito – which I reviewed here, and fits in a completely different category – Kaji is still at the top of the Toronto sushi food chain. On one hand, very impressive. On the other, the lack of competition – the lack of progress in the market – over 25 years is concerning.

It’s like when I weightlift. If I push myself with drop sets or supersets – I know, you’re impressed – I’ll get a head rush when I stand up. On one hand, it feels great. On the other, there’s probably an underlying issue I should be deeply worried about.

But fuck it feels good. Just like it does when I’m sitting at the counter at Sushi Kaji.

Recommended.