Ishikawa’s Sushidokoro Mekumi is slated to open a New York outpost at 70 Charlton this September.
There’s been a few different phases to the sushi bubble explosion in New York City and America-at-large.
There was the “did you know Omakase-is-fine-dining” from the early 2010s. There was an influx of well-regarded apprentices moving stateside in the mid-late 2010s. There was – and still is, unfortunately – Chalkboard Omakase in the early 2020s.
And now, over the last two years, there’s been a growing trend of relocating (or duplicating) the world’s legendary sushiya right here. There were others, but the fantastic Yoshino and Sushi Sho led the charge, Sushi Yoshitake is on its way, and there’s been rumours about Mitani as well.
And this September, some birdies as well as my crack investigative work tells me that Sushidokoro Mekumi is opening at 70 Charlton.
Despite what you may have heard, 70 Charlton is in Hudson Square
A job posting says 70 Charlton is in “West Soho”. A certain fashion blogger might tell you it’s in “Upper TriBeCa”. The truth is the neighborhood is called Hudson Square, renowned for a Trader Joe’s, UPS facility, and zero sushiya besides Mishik. Mekumi will be welcomed.
Apparently it’s in conjunction with the Hirohisa team
They’re the brains behind Sushi Ikumi (and of course Hirohisa) in real SoHo, and now Cafe Mio and Bar Mutsumi around the corner.
Why this matters
Well, nothing really matters if you think about it too much, but for the sushi addicts – yes, that’s you if you’re reading this blog – Sushidokoro Mekumi is a big deal. It’s Itamae, Takayoshi Yamaguchi, is renowned for a style that is one-part traditional, one-part his own. Some will tell you his passion for freshness and science in prep steer his ship, and yes those are impressive (Yamaguchi-san often monologues to customers about the science behind his dishes). But beyond his waza (technique), it’s his commitment to sourcing the best seafood from his region, Hokuriku – including Kanazawa and the Noto peninsula – that’s his differentiator. In winter times, that often means special snow crab-focused menus. He also seems like a swell guy – the sushiya is named after his wife, Mekumi.
Tourists tourists trek to Nonoichi in Ishikawa Prefecture for the privilege. As he said in Sushi Shokunin – Yamaguchi-san was one of 20 sushi legends featured(I interviewed author Andrea here) – he wants his customers “to feel the beauty of the region”. Looking at this picture of akanishigai (red sea snail), I’d say mission accomplished.
Counter looks to be helmed by his ‘protege’
Looks like Hajime Kumabe, his apprentice, will be leading this outpost. Expect warmer shari and a focus on seafood from the region, which makes me happy. Besides the fantastic Takeda, I’m not aware of any sushiya in New York that exclusively focus here. I’m also getting old and may have forgotten.
Update: a bird tells me that ingredient provenance (big word) will extend beyond regional borders because of logistics. While the Toyosu-New York City pipeline is well-established – just ask any sushiya with an auction certificate in this city – shipping high-quality seafood from mongers and markets like Omicho (in Kanazawa) quickly enough is more challenging.
Update 2: Yamaguchi-san may indeed be here for a few months a year. Only one birdie told me that nugget, but it tracks with logic since Sushidokoro Mekumi closed in February.
What it will look like inside
Other sushi blogs – do those even exist – will comment on this news from their ivory tower. Not me. I went boots on the ground earlier today. I even got this picture.
Place is wallpapered top to bottom, so who knows what’s going on behind closed doors. But I found a source in the building – because I’m a real journalist – who confirmed September opening. They also said it was slated to open last February, so until I’m actually sitting at the counter eating Kani Miso, take the timeline with a grain of salt.
As long as its open by winter…
While we don’t have any insights into what the menu might look like, it’s reasonable to assume that the sushiya famous for incorporating crab will find a way to incorporate crab. Kano-gani and Kobako-gani – male and female snow crabs caught in Ishikawa prefecture – are in season starting in November.
Don’t expect too many pictures when it opens
Sushidokoro Mekumi allows pictures for the otsumami courses only. I had heard the thinking was that sushi had to be eaten quickly – the ‘optimal’ point in preparation (s/o bourdain) – and pictures take time. But post-pub, I heard a different explanation: trade secrets.
Regardless, no complaints from yours truly if that holds in New York. I take pictures – when allowed – because it adds colour to the reviews and I enjoy having the memories. But it’s inarguable that removing the option makes for a more relaxed and engaged experience.
More information…
As potential pulitzer winners do, I reached out to the sushiya here for comment. As of press time (aka me pressing the button), I have not yet heard back. In the meantime, I’d highly recommend checking out this fantastic 2017 article: