HIDDEN IN PLAIN SIGHT
I grew up in Toronto. More specifically, I grew up in North Toronto. Even more specifically, I grew up at Avenue and the 401.
That means that (a) I’ve just told 40,000 unique monthly legends (no big deal) where I lived and (b) I passed by Issmi Japanese Restaurant on Avenue Road no less than 5 million times.
Issmi was always just there, like Harvey’s, Karbouzi and Garrett’s Florist. I never stepped foot, and yet they stayed open so clearly they were popular.
But on a recent trip, a friend gave me the heads up on the lunch.
Issmi Lunch Menu
Yes, this is the same friend that forced me into Sugarfish on a recent visit to New York (review here). I was probably more likely to take sushi recommendations from Anna Delvey. But we were hungry, parking was easy – free on Dunblaine for an hour! – and so we went.
I’m very glad we did.
(this gives me an opportunity to remind any Torontonians visiting the US – don’t go to Sugarfish. Have some self respect).
MYSTERIES ABOUND
Issmi is family-owned and has been around for decades. I know nothing beyond that. Found nothing online. I even emailed Issmi itself for more information, since that’s what real (fake) journalists do. They ignored me. And yet, here I am, typing out one of the more positive reviews I’ve given in Toronto. Lesser bloggers would never.
THE BEST LUNCH OPTION ISN’T EVEN ON THE LUNCH MENU
Issmi has a special lunch menu, but I steered clear.
To me, the $36 sushi set for 14 nigiri and a miso soup is as good as any deal on the lunch menu. Of course, the miso soup tasted like chemical water, but that’s not why we ride.
This is why we ride.
Issmi Special Sushi ($36). From Top left to bottom right: Ebi, Ika Aburi, Saba, Hotategai, Akami, Salmon Belly, Salmon, Albacore (miss 1), Escolar (miss 2), Hamachi Belly, Ikura, Uni, Chu Toro, Tako
The shari was immediately noticeable to me. Some may say a little sweet, but not I. In fact, I was so pleasantly surprised, I even took this picture.
The shari was fantastic
I also heard some complaints on the shari at dinner time. Rice is always going to be partially based on when it’s made. Perhaps we had a better experience going at the start of lunch service, so fair warning.
NOT PERFECT
Yes, this special had both albacore (aka shiromaguro) and escolar (aka butter fish aka a fish I wouldn’t feed to my worst enemy). Yes, it had ebi, the patron saint of boiled rubber. And yes, the chu toro had a little gold leaf on top (is there anyone on planet earth that likes gold leaves on sushi?)
But for $36 – CAD! – it’s hard to be picky. If those small things get fixed, this is a sushiya I’d comfortably put among Toronto’s best.
THE MAKI ALSO SHINES
Too many places in Toronto – and frankly, New York – prepare their makimono all-you-can-eat style; that is, heavy on the rice, and filling off-centre. Not so at Issmi.
Negihama ($11)
The filling is centred; in fact, some might say there’s not enough rice. I enjoyed these immensely. In fact, for the second time ever, I really enjoyed a ‘spicy’ maki.
Spicy salmon ($9)
The other time? Another Toronto sushiya, Edo, a pioneer in the city’s sushi scene (reviewed here). It’s ironic, because Issmi is what Edo could have been – should have been? – if it stayed true to itself. Instead, they changed their tagline to “far beyond sushi” and started offering poke and sushi burritos. True shame.
A heads up – internet reviews seem to love the tempura at Issmi. My dining partner – aka the COO of The Sushi Legend – ordered yam tempura and was a big fan. I learned recently that the method for cooking Tempura was first introduced by the Portuguese in the 16th century. Lovely stuff.
Yam tempura ($7 I think?)
Soft Tofu Salad with a fantastic house dressing ($8)
MISSED CONNECTIONS
I never caught your names. You two were in for lunch to pick up a big order, yet sat at a table and ordered Sake. You hung out for 30 minutes talking all sorts of work nonsense. And at the end, you told the server that you know the owner, so you didn’t need to tip. Maybe I’m paraphrasing. But you seemed like regulars, so hopefully you read this. And hopefully you realize that we live in an evolved society. If you order alcohol to a table, tip the server. Or go to the LCBO and sit on a bench.
Recommended.
