Sushi Mekumi NYC

SUSHI MEKUMI IS FANTASTIC BUT NOT PERFECT – YET

The recent opening of Sushi Mekumi in Hudson Square is a microcosm for sushi in New York City. We’re moving into a new generation here; for a few years, the most hyped sushiya openings were rising stars or established legends bankrolled into a new counter. Sushi Noz. Sushi Ichimura. Shion 69 Leonard. Noda. Even Sushi Nakazawa, that paint-by-numbers icon.

But as it so often goes, trends grow and then grow tired; not as tired me after Game 3 of the World Series with a rooster flight out of Pearson, but close. Things evolve. It’s no longer enough to poach an apprentice from a sushiya in Japan, you need to poach the entire sushiya, or at least a substantial chunk. Yoshino was a pioneer, but Sushi Sho and the forthcoming Sushi Yoshitake are examples.

And now Sushi Mekumi, the outpost of Sushidokoro Mekumi in Nonoichi. The sushiya is the brainchild of Takayoshi Yamaguchi, who named it after his wife. Yamaguchi-san’s commitment to sourcing seafood from his region, Hokuriku – including Kanazawa and the Noto peninsula – differentiates him from other famous shops, particularly in Tokyo. In winter, that means a focus on regionally famous snow crabs, Kano-gani (male) and Kobako-gani (female), but all year round crabs are a focus here.

Yamaguchi-san’s commitment and waza (technique) earned him a spot in Andrea Fazzari’s Sushi Shokunin, a book that (a) I’ve talked about ad nauseum and (b) profiles 20 legends of the sushi world (I spoke to Andrea here).

But Yamaguchi-san isn’t here. His apprentice, Hajime Kumabe is. He’s about the nicest person I’ve ever encountered behind a sushi counter.

EXHIBIT A

The night I went – and I’m not fucking with you here, I never would, you’re all my legends – an absolute asshole was four seats over. This clowN didn’t just show up 25 minutes late, he showed up 25 minutes with earbuds in. You see, he was on a call, and far be it for a pesky societal norm like “don’t be a douchebag” to get in the way. Through it all, the staff said nothing (I know a chef that might have thrown binchotan). Even when this clown left halfway through, Kumabe-san patiently made each nigiri, placed it into a takeout container, and left it for his eventual return.

With hyped new sushiya – and Mekumi is HYPED – you’re going to get assholes. Thankfully, a few sushiya in the city sent flowers to balance evil with good.

THE SUSHIYA IS INSIDE 70 CHARLTON

That’s an apartment complex. I’m not sure how they chose the location, but the space itself didn’t overwhelm me like other sushi temples in the city. For the design snobs, i judge this one way: do I feel a serene relaxation – whatever that means – when I’m at the counter. Keep in mind this is a high bar since my brain fires like the roadrunner on speed. But I’m not sure if it’s the blue wall, the music, the hotel lobby style foyer, the bathroom with the wonky door, but I never got there

THE MEAL MAKES UP FOR IT

The Omakase is a prepaid $300 (++) and between 18 and 20 courses long, though there is a decent Okonomi (essentially a la carte) offering at the end. The courses change nightly, as they should. One of you legends sent me the menu from two nights after, and at least 3 of the 18 courses were different.

THE SHOW BEGINS

The centrepiece of the entire evening is a 5 pound Kegani (I’m guessing on the weight, I did not bring my scale). I’m firmly in the crab > lobster camp, so this Kegani – which was used for multiple courses – was particularly exciting. It comes from Hokkaido, which was a pattern for the evening. That may disappoint those expecting a meal centered around Hokuriku/Ishikawa/Kanazawa/etc. 6 of the 16 Otsumami and Nigirizushi courses come from Hokkaido, while just two came from Ishikawa. The extent of my seafood sourcing background is nodding along to fishmongers, so I’m sure there’s a good reason. But given that the OG is known for using ingredients especially from its home region, consider this a heads up.

THE NIGIRI PORTION WAS EXCELLENT BUT…

I’ve heard some whispered concerns around the nigiri here, but for the most part, these courses were excellent. We started with a Madai from Kagoshima, a common early course in a nigiri progression. Surely among the most beautiful “red sea bream” that I’ve ever eaten.

Yari Ika (spear squid) was next from Fukuoka. Late autumn is the start of its season, and care is required to make sure it doesn’t lose flavour quickly.

Ama Ebi is another autumn neta that I’m glad Mekumi served, if only to remind New York City diners what Ama Ebi actually looks like. It comes from Ishikawa

THE SHARI

Sushi Mekumi uses Sasashigure shari for their sushi, mainly because of its subtle taste and depth of flavour. From that perspective, mission accomplished: the neta is the star here. But midway through, a problem. One of the batches of shari was noticeably hot. Rice should be body temperature, not sun temperature. Those pesky opening month kinks.

THE KEGANI RETURNS

Mekumi makes use of every part of that Kegani. It comes back here as part of a pseudo oshizushi (nori ends up being involved).

The futomaki is cut into 8 pieces and chosen one-at-a-time by each customer. I had my fantasy basketball draft later that night, so this was good prep for my crippling indecisiveness. I chose bottom left.

THE OKONOMI MENU

For the real nerds, here’s what was offered after the meal, organized by price. All of the Omakase courses were on offer as well, prices not disclosed. Three customers next to me went for rounds 2 and 3 of the Kegani.

• Ankimo (32) from Hokkaido
• Bafun Uni ($32) from Hokkaido
• Hirasuzuki ($14) from Mie precture
• Kinmedai ($21) from Chiba
• Madai ($15) from Shizuoka
• Murasaki Uni ($15) from Santa Barbara
• Sanma Sujime ($14) from Hokkaido
• Sawara ($19) from Mie prefecture
• Sumi Ika ($22) from Kagoshima
• Tennen Buri ($22) – assume from somewhere north
• Yaito Katsuo ($20) from Kagoshima

If you can read a map, you’ll realize that zero from the list above was from Hokuriku. I’m sure there are legitimate reasons – the omakase featured plenty? – but still something to be aware of for the sushi geeks out there.

I ordered the Murasaki Uni, the Ankimo and the Sanma Sujime. The first two are personal favourites (Ankimo is my third child). The Sanma was in season, and Sujime is a traditional technique for preserving fish, usually silver-skinned or blue-skinned, where fish salted, washed in vinegar, and left for some (or many) hours. Of course it enhances the flavours as well.

The Sanma was delicious, but the other two had some issues; the Ankimo burned my mouth to a crisp. Serving it hot is fine, but I’m assuming “match the temperature of Captain Hook’s footbath” wasn’t the goal.

The Murasaki uni had a different problem; it didn’t show up at all (certainly did on the bill though!). They were all very apologetic, and ultimately who really gives a shit. Just a couple hitches that are part of the opening process and I’m sure will be worked out over time.

THE VERDICT

So yes there were some kinks, and of course I’d rather have sampled the best of Hokuriku (I’ll have to stick with Takeda for that).  But I’m not sure there’s many (any?) sushiya at this price point that are as focused on seasonality as Sushi Mekumi (maybe Sushi Mumi?). The Ama Ebi, Yari Ika, Kegani, Kawahagi, Kue, are all key parts of the autumn sushi calendar. The openers were tasty and tasteful. There’s no saucy, 20-minute-to-prep otsumami masquerading as appetizers. And the sushi, save for the mid-stream rice snafu, was truly excellent.

This is a great sushiya, with the chance to be among the city’s best.

Recommended.